Abirpothi

The Mystery of Baijnath’s Uncelebrated Dussehra

Baijnath Shiv Temple, Kangra, Himachal Pradesh 

The moment you reach Kangra valley, you are greeted by picturesque views of the mighty Dhauldhar in the backdrop against lush green agricultural fields dotted with villages over the countryside. Kangra is steeped in history and culture with numerous temples, monasteries and historical places. In the bustling town of Baijnath lies the unique and all important Baijnath Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. An architectural marvel, the Baijnath temple showcases intricate stone carvings and exquisite craftsmanship. You will be surprised to know that the town of Baijnath does not celebrate Dussehra as Ravana was an ardent devotee of Lord Shiva. Across the country, effigies of Ravana are burnt, but not in Baijnath.

Baijnath Temple, Courtesy: Abhishek Das
Baijnath Temple, Courtesy: Abhishek Das

A temple that has stood the test of time like a ‘pillar’

The architecture of the temple reflects the Nagara style, which is unique to northern India characterised by a curved ‘shikhara’ with the ‘garbhagriha’, sanctum sanctorum placed right underneath it.  

You will marvel at the sculptures of the temple built centuries ago. Imagine going back to the Ramayana age. In front of the mandapa is a porch resting on four columns. Both the south and north wall of the mandapa are adorned with massive balconies. There is also the sculpture of Nandi (mount/vehicle of Lord Shiva) as is customary in all Shiva temples. There is clear evidence of repairs and renovations from time to time. The outer walls of the sanctum are enriched with niches which contain image slabs depicting various deities and events. It is believed that Sansara Chandra ll, the Katoch king of Kangra, had carried out extensive repairs and renovations of the temple in the 18th century.

The devastating earthquake in April 1905 shook the entire region of Kangra but the temple has withstood the test of nature. At present, this temple is a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India. The puja and rituals are performed and are under the local board of Baijnath with the SDM as its chairman.

Kangra, Himachal Pradesh, Image Courtesy: Praveen Musafir
Kangra, Himachal Pradesh, Image Courtesy: Praveen Musafir

The quaint town of myths and legends

This quaint town is filled with interesting stories of yore. As per the inscriptions found inside the temple, it was built in the early 13th century by two merchant brothers Manyuka and Ahuka. As per one of the legends, during the Treta Yug, King Ravana worshipped Lord Shiva at the Rakshas taal around Mount Kailash. He prayed for invincibility and immortality. He is supposed to have beheaded all his ten heads in order to please Shiva. This act by Ravana impressed Lord Shiva and he granted him his wishes and reinstated all his heads. Ravana requested Lord Shiva to accompany him to his kingdom in Lanka which Lord Shiva agreed to but with a condition that his Shivalinga (he would be carried in the form of a Shivalinga) does not touch the ground. The catch was if he did place him on the ground, he would not be able to lift him (the Shivalinga) again.

This is where Baijnath comes into the picture. When Ravana reached Baijnath, he had to relieve himself to answer nature’s call and handed over the Shivalinga to the shepherd Baiju (Vishnu in disguise of a shepherd). But Ravana forgot to tell him not to place the Shivalinga on the ground. Baiju could not hold the heavy Shivalinga for long and placed it on the ground. And as Lord Shiva’s condition, the Shivalinga resides in Baijnath thereafter and became an abode of Lord Shiva. There is another folklore attached to it which makes it even more interesting.

The Shivalinga inside the Baijnath Temple is supposed to stretch deep into the earth. It is said that once the ruler of Mandi wished to take the Shivalinga with him. He dug deep down the earth but his labourers could not reach the Shivalinga and a swarm of bees is supposed to have attacked the workers.

It is also believed that the Pandavas also visited this temple during their exile.

Image Courtesy: NativePlanet
Image Courtesy: NativePlanet

Festivities Celebrating the Great Lord

Maha Shivaratri is celebrated with great enthusiasm. Laghu Rudra yagna is performed. People enjoy a five day State level fair. The entire town of Baijnath is illuminated and the temple is decorated with flowers and colourful lights. Cultural functions are also held. There is a ‘Mela’ (fair) which goes on for several days near the temple. ‘Havan’ is performed for the welfare of the world.

Panch Bhisham Chaturdashi, traditionally known as ‘Khod Maar’ is also observed. Here, walnuts are showered from the top of the temple post sunset! This festival comes in the month of October or November.

Another festival celebrated here is Makar Sankranti which is celebrated for eight days. Pure ghee is laden on the Shivalinga to form a column, called ‘ghrit mandal’ and is placed on the Shivling for eight days. This butter of the ‘ghrit mandal’ which is removed after eight days, believed to have medicinal value, is distributed among the devotees as Prasad.

If you are planning to visit Baijnath, the months of March to June and September to November should be ideal. During these months apart from the weather being pleasant for sightseeing and exploration, you can also enjoy the festivities of the region. Monsoon months are not advisable due to heavy rains and potential landslides.

The morning and evening Aarti is a must visit for a spirituality enriching experience. You are sure to be carried away in another world.

Baijnath Shiv Temple, Image Courtesy: Tripadvisor
Baijnath Shiv Temple, Image Courtesy: Tripadvisor

The First Heritage Village of India

Additionally you can explore the many nearby attractions such as the Kangra Fort, Palampur, Brajeshwari Devi Temple, Jwalaji Temple, Bir Biling and many more places. But one particular place that should be in your itinerary is Pragpur – the first heritage village of the country. Its unique architecture and pristine beauty is alluring and the state government of Himachal Pradesh declared Pragpur as the country’s first Heritage Village in December 1997. Spending  a day walking around this beautiful laidback village with a experiencing old ‘pahadi architecture’ with modern renovations is bound to make you wonder how heritage intertwined with modernity can coexist. It is situated less than 100 kms from Baijnath and you are bound to cross it if you are coming by road from the plains (unless you are coming via Mandi).

References:

https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/travel/destinations/baijnath-the-himachal-town-that-doesnt-celebrate-dussehra/articleshow/94610341.cms

https://www.tribuneindia.com/news/himachal/shivratri-festival-to-begin-on-march-8-in-baijnath-597048


Featuring Image Courtesy: Himachal Pradesh General Studies

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