For centuries, the detailed and colorful embroidery of the Kachhi Rabari community has been a key cultural practice in Kutch, Gujarat. Today, this traditional art form is well-known worldwide. It is deeply connected to the life, identity, and history of the nomadic Rabari people.
The Rabaris mainly raise camels and are nomadic herders of sheep, goats, cattle, or buffaloes, depending on the region. In addition to embroidery, Rabari men practiced ply-split braiding, making camel gear like tang (girths), gorbandh (neck decorations), halters, and khurji (bags). This craft, now declining, once represented the deep bond between humans, deities, and animals.
Eventually settled in the semi-desert areas of Kutch. While Rabaris did not practice embroidery in Rajasthan before the 11th century, they adopted it later as they migrated and adapted to new areas. The Rabari subgroups of Kutch, Saurashtra, and north Gujarat all do embroidery, each with its unique mix of stitches, colors, and motifs. For instance, the Patanvadi Rabari in north Gujarat, who settled in the 14th century, adopted local embroidery styles and incorporated urban floral designs into their garments. Traditionally, Rabari embroidery played a vital part in family and social life. Women embroidered not for sale but for personal use, marriage trousseaus, and religious offerings. Embroidered items were cherished gifts that showed affection, respect, and cultural values.
Unique motifs include the Mor (peacock), Sudo (parrot), Ambo (mango tree), Panihari (woman fetching water), Sandiyo (camel), Deri (temple), Vinchhi (scorpion), Hathi (elephant), and Bajubandh (armlet). These motifs are created using stitches such as broad chain stitch, buttonhole stitch, mirror work, herringbone stitch (vano), interlaced stitch (bavliyo), patchwork, and bound mirror work. Additional stitches known as bakhiyo and dana are also commonly used.
In eastern Saurashtra, Rabaris who migrated in the 15th century began using local embroidery styles for home decoration by the early 1900s. Over time, embroidery changed from a cultural expression to a way to earn a living. With shifting economic conditions in the 1980s, like irrigation development, cash crop farming, and rising inflation Rabari women began earning wages. Embroidery became a respected source of income, allowing women to work from home and manage their own schedules. Rabari women create various items from their embroidery, including batvas (bags), chaklas (squares), torans (doorway hangings), kachliyos, ghaghras (skirts), zuldis, vanznos, bandis, caps, and kapdas.
Although commercialization has changed its role, the art remains an essential part of Rabari culture. The struggle between maintaining identity and adapting to change continues to influence the story of Kachhi Rabari embroidery an evolving tradition rooted in centuries of heritage.
Featuring Image Courtesy: Notre Ame
Minerva is a visual artist and currently serves as a sub editor at Abir Pothi.
