Abirpothi

Seeds of Change: Sustainable Textile Art of Beej and Co.

Beej and Co. was born in 2020, at the height of the global pandemic—a time when the artisan and craft sectors were hit particularly hard. Amid widespread uncertainty, the brand emerged as a quiet but determined response: to support weavers and craftspeople whose livelihoods were at risk, and to preserve the traditional knowledge embedded in their hands. What began as an act of care and resilience has since grown into a movement rooted in sustainability, slow fashion, and a deep respect for the rhythms of nature and craft.

Founded by the husband and wife duo Dr. Vishal C. Bhand and Bijoya Halder in the culturally rich town of Santiniketan, Beej and Co. is a sustainable brand rooted in the values of craftsmanship, environmental consciousness, and indigenous wisdom.

This origin shapes everything Beej and Co. does. Each piece is not just made; it is nurtured—through mindful processes, natural dyes, and ecoprinting techniques that allow leaves, flowers, and bark to leave their honest imprint on cloth. It is where tradition finds voice in modern expression, and where garments carry the quiet strength of stories, seasons, and survival.

Bijoya Halder is the Creative Director at Beej and Co. She is a Post graduate in Textile Design from National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad, after B.F.A, History of Art from Kala Bhavana (School of Fine Arts), Visva Bharati University, India. She has worked with many reputed designers and firms, specialising in Indian traditional weaving. Her experience in the industry and at the grass root level has broadened the vision about sustainable products.

Dr. Vishal C. Bhand is an honorary design consultant at Beej and Co. He is an INLAKS scholar holding M.S. from School of Textile Industries, University of Leeds, U.K. He has taught at National Institute of Design and many other reputed institutes. He played a crucial role in making Visva Bharati the first central university to start a professional design program (Bachelor of Design) while he was HOD of Silpa Sadana,Visva-Bharati, Sriniketan.

He has served as National Consultant for New Education Policy, Government of India and Advisor, Department of Arts and Aesthetics, NCERT, N. Delhi. He is a practicing Designer/Artist and has widely travelled to work/exhibit in India and abroad. Presently, he is an Associate Professor in Design at Visva Bharati, Santiniketan, India.

Specializing in the art of ecoprinting and natural dyeing, each creation from Beej and Co. is a one-of-a-kind wearable artwork. Imbued with the hues and textures of nature, these pieces are printed using foraged foliage—leaves, flowers, and plant matter—capturing the essence of the environment in every thread. Every fabric used by Beej and Co is handwoven and developed in the nearby villages of Bengal. They primarily work with Mulberry Silk, tussar Silk, Cotton and Hemp.

Bijoya Halder, the creative director of Beej and Co, opened up about their journey and the design ethos of the brand in this candid conversation as part of D Talks. 

Q. What prompted you to become a textile designer?

Bijoya Halder: Studying at one of the finest multidisciplinary institutes in Fine Arts broadened my perspective on various creative mediums. I have always been eager to explore and experiment across disciplines. 

While I specialized in the History of Art during my undergraduate studies, I also took Textiles as a subsidiary subject. The study of art history sharpened my observational and analytical skills, particularly in understanding objects and artefacts in depth. This analytical approach helped guide my career path, as I was drawn to aspects of utility and functionality in creative expression. As a result, design naturally became the core focus of my academic and professional interests. Furthermore, I pursued Post Graduation in Textile Design from the prestigious National Institute of Design.

Q. How would you describe your signature design aesthetic, and how has it evolved while working in India?

Bijoya Halder: Coming from a fine arts and design background, I honed my skills through a combination of formal training and hands-on experience. Professionally, I have worked across various craft sectors throughout India, which exposed me to diverse traditional techniques and the rich vocabulary of Indian craft traditions. A significant part of my career has been dedicated to woven textiles, including iconic fabrics like Kanjivaram, Varanasi, Chanderi, and Maheshwari sarees. I have always embraced a minimalistic approach, merging contemporary aesthetics with deep-rooted traditional craftsmanship.

Currently, I specialize in natural dyeing, an ancient textile dyeing technique that has been practiced in India for centuries. What sets my work apart is the contemporary twist I bring to this tradition through ecoprinting—a modern interpretation of natural dyeing techniques that aligns with both sustainability and artistry.

Q. What influences and inspires your current work? Could you share some movements, designers, or elements of Indian culture that have shaped your practice?

Bijoya Halder: Currently, my work is deeply inspired by nature and rooted in the use of natural resources. What began as an exploratory practice in ecoprinting and natural dyeing gradually evolved during the Covid crisis, which became a turning point. The pandemic highlighted the need to support artisans and sustain traditional practices, prompting me to take this work more seriously. This led to the formation of a brand co-founded with my husband, who is also a Design Professor. What started as a simple routine of practice and self-reflection slowly matured into a refined and meaningful body of work.

Over the years, I’ve had the opportunity to collaborate with leading brands such as Raw Mango, Nalli Silks, Sabyasachi, and Tata Trust, each offering unique learning experiences and skill development. These engagements expanded my perspective and helped sharpen my understanding of craft, design, and industry practices. My core experience lies in saree design—across styles, techniques, and regions—which has given me a deep insight into how design varies across different mediums. This journey has not only enriched my technical expertise but also strengthened my confidence in working at the intersection of tradition and innovation.

Q. Could you walk us through your creative process? How do you move from initial concept to final execution?

Bijoya Halder: Ecoprinting is a sustainable and environmentally conscious textile printing technique—yet it is also a playful and intuitive medium that keeps the mystery alive. Since it involves printing with real leaves, flowers, bark, roots, and other plant materials, the results are never the same. Each piece is unique, shaped by the natural elements used and the season they are sourced in.

The process begins with collecting plant materials from the surrounding environment, followed by pre-mordanting the fabric to prepare it for dye absorption. Once mordanted, the plant materials are thoughtfully arranged on the fabric according to a conceptual layout. The fabric is then rolled tightly into a bundle and steamed for several hours, depending on its length and the specific botanical matter used.

After steaming, the bundle is carefully unwrapped, and each plant element is removed by hand. The fabric is then washed thoroughly to remove any excess pigment. The true beauty of ecoprinted textiles lies in their seasonal nature. Not all flowers or leaves are available year-round, and even if they are, they may not always carry enough tannin to leave a strong imprint. This ever-changing natural cycle means the process must be constantly reimagined and adapted—making every piece a reflection of both nature’s rhythm and the maker’s responsiveness to it.

Natural dyeing is one of the oldest and most revered dyeing and printing techniques, deeply rooted in tradition and craftsmanship. Ecoprinting, a contemporary evolution of this art, creates a fresh dialogue between nature and Indian crafts and communities. At Beej and Co., this blend of ancient wisdom and modern expression forms a unique vocabulary—where the colors and patterns of the natural world meet the hands and stories of indigenous artisans.

What truly sets Beej and Co. apart is its firm stance against fast fashion. The brand embraces a slow, mindful process and a minimalist approach that prioritizes low carbon footprints over mass production. Each garment is a quiet celebration of intentional living, echoing the rhythms of nature and the hands that craft them. Beej and Co. is more than a label—it’s a philosophy of sustainability, artistry, and reverence for the natural world.

Q. What’s your most exciting recent design or art discovery that’s influencing your current thinking?

Bijoya Halder: Eco printing and natural dyeing are journeys of constant discovery. The deeper we go, the more we realize how much more there is to learn — nature holds infinite mystery and magic. What excites us most is the freedom to print wherever we are. Every place offers its own unique palette of local, indigenous foliage. Exploring and understanding these ecosystems is what completes our story — it roots our work in a sense of place, connection, and reverence for the natural world.

Q. What unique challenges and opportunities have you encountered as an emerging designer in the Indian design industry, and how are you working to overcome these obstacles?

Bijoya Halder: With experience comes the ability to know when and where to stop—this is especially true in design. Over time, I’ve come to appreciate that each project carries its own rhythm, and the most valuable realizations often emerge much later. Sometimes, it’s a quiet reflection—“that could have been better”—while at other times, it’s a spontaneous moment of clarity. I see both as essential parts of the creative journey.

I find equal joy in both printing and weaving. Each medium engages the senses in its own way, offering different possibilities and challenges. Every material and process comes with its own set of constraints, and I see it as a creative responsibility to respond to them thoughtfully, fulfilling each opportunity to its fullest.

The Art and Challenge of Ecoprinting 

Every craft comes with its own set of challenges—and when it comes to ecoprinting on a six-yard saree, the process is anything but simple.

Collecting plant matter through extreme summer heat or in biting cold is the first test. Then comes the meticulous task of placing each leaf, stem, or flower—carefully and thoughtfully—across the expansive canvas of a saree. Rolling it all tightly, without disturbing the arrangement, is a skill that takes both strength and patience.

But perhaps the most complex part is invisible: the aesthetic judgment.
Every person sees beauty differently, but as a designer, I believe it’s important to plan the layout—to consider how the print will fall when draped, how the eye moves across the surface, and how colors interact. A leaf can’t simply be placed at random. There must be a composition, a balance, an understanding of material, color harmony, and design flow.

Ecoprinting is more than technique—it’s a quiet choreography between nature and cloth, guided by intention and care.

Q. How do you approach sustainability and eco-friendly practices in your designs, particularly considering India’s traditional wisdom and contemporary environmental challenges?

Bijoya Halder: At Beej and Co., we believe in conscious creation.

In today’s world, social media has changed the game—offering immense visibility, yet also blurring the lines between what’s genuine and what’s not. For instance, distinguishing real silk from synthetic alternatives can be challenging for the untrained eye. This identity crisis is particularly acute in the world of handicrafts, where authenticity is everything.

At Beej and Co., we’re taking a stand. We’re a small, homegrown brand with a tight-knit team of about ten people involved in every step—from concept to creation. Together, we’re developing our own fabrics, carefully selecting materials, and building awareness around the value of true craftsmanship.

As designers, we see this as an exciting opportunity. A chance to create work that is not only new and different, but also sustainable and stylish. Our goal is two-fold: to support India’s rich craft communities and to serve a new generation of clients seeking nature-friendly, meaningful design choices.

Q. Your work often involves collaborations with artisans and other creatives. What draws you to these partnerships, and how do these collaborations enrich your design practice?

Bijoya Halder: Crafting Connections: Tradition, Technique, and Textile

At Beej and Co., while ecoprinting remains our core, our creative journey is deeply rooted in the rich craft heritage of India—particularly that of Santiniketan, home to timeless techniques like Kantha embroidery and Batik printing.

We’ve developed a range of natural-dyed Batik textiles and have thoughtfully incorporated Kantha into our work, creating layered, textured pieces that celebrate both tradition and innovation. These techniques not only reflect our cultural landscape but also expand the visual language of our textiles.

Our vision goes beyond a single method. We are currently exploring Shibori, a traditional Japanese tie-dye technique, to combine with ecoprinting—breaking monotony and creating a new rhythm in surface design. These hybrid approaches allow us to push boundaries while staying grounded in handmade values.

All our textiles begin with the foundation of fabric. We weave our own base fabrics in villages across Bengal, collaborating closely with local weavers. At the same time, we remain curious—seeking out and working with regional fabrics from across India. Every material behaves differently with natural dyes—its texture, absorption, and finish all influence the final outcome, making each piece truly one-of-a-kind.

We see every textile not just as a product, but as a conversation between craft, material, and nature.

Q. For aspiring designers looking to make their mark in India’s design landscape, what wisdom would you share from your journey?

Bijoya Halder: Rooted in Tradition, Evolving for the Future

India is home to an extraordinary wealth of craft traditions—each with its own story, technique, and legacy. Yet, in today’s fast-changing world, our artisans need more than just appreciation; they need innovation and skill enhancement to remain relevant and empowered.

At Beej and Co., we believe that thoughtful design, supported by technology, can help cultivate a better system—one that keeps these traditions alive while making them more meaningful and sustainable. It’s not about changing the craft; it’s about evolving with purpose.

Nature, we believe, holds all the answers. If we observe closely, inspiration is everywhere—from textures and colors to patterns and processes. As someone once said, “Art is nothing but the imitation of nature.”

For the next generation of designers, the way forward is to first look back—to understand what has already been done, to absorb the essence of traditional craft, and then take it one step further. Innovation rooted in respect—that’s the path to timeless design.

Q. As you look ahead, what kind of projects or directions would you like to explore?

Bijoya Halder: One Focus, Infinite Possibilities

At Beej and Co., we believe in the power of focus. Rather than spreading ourselves across many techniques, we’ve chosen to go deep with one: ecoprinting. Limiting ourselves to this single process has opened up a world of creative exploration.

The true joy lies in how every landscape tells a different story. Each place we visit offers a new palette—its own foliage, climate, soil, and local flora. These elements influence the colors and patterns that emerge in our prints. No two regions, no two prints are ever the same.

When we began our journey with Beej and Co., we knew only a handful of natural dyes. But as we walked deeper into this path, we discovered—and continue to discover—a wide array of plant matter that yields rich, vibrant pigments. We’ve learned that the color is most intense when the leaves are fresh, and only a select few retain their dyeing potential over time.

This ongoing exploration excites us. Our dream is to travel the world, to print with local foliage, and to showcase how nature leaves its imprint—literally—on fabric. We want to bring this magic from nature to clothing to a global audience, one leaf at a time.

Q. How do you build visibility and reach out to potential clients – what platforms and strategies have worked best for you?

Bijoya Halder: Let the Work Speak.

At Beej and Co., we believe that if the work is honest and meaningful, the right people will find it. Social media is undoubtedly a powerful tool—it helps us reach across boundaries and share our story. But for us, the real impact comes when our work speaks for itself.

There’s something deeply rewarding about growing through word of mouth. When someone experiences our textiles and shares it with another, it means the work has resonated. No amount of boosted posts can replace that kind of genuine connection.

In a world full of noise, we choose quiet confidence. We let our craft do the talking.

Image Courtesy: Beej and Co.

Ad