What started as an idea of self-expression and a novel understanding of “what makes you YOU” for Nutan ultimately formed the foundation of the revolutionary brand Turn Black – India’s one and only all-black ethical clothing line. Nutan, who is originally from Uttarakhand and has spent most of her life in Delhi, was always driven toward textures and fabrics with a vision she wanted to nurture at her own pace, step by step.
When she got married in 2017, everything around her began to change — including how she was expected to dress, suddenly finding herself in bright colors she never felt at home in: reds, pinks, yellows, heavy outfits, layers of expectations. One day, catching a glimpse of herself in the mirror, she didn’t recognize who she was looking at, didn’t feel like herself, and realized something profound: when you’re not dressed in a way that feels true to who you are, it’s an utter waste. She had always been drawn to darker shades like black, brown, grey, colors that brought her comfort, calm, and a sense of self, but those colors, especially black, weren’t considered “appropriate” for a newly married woman in India, carrying stigma as inauspicious, rebellious, even depressing, though to Nutan, black meant acceptance – the kind that’s quiet, steady, and deeply personal. So she began stitching her own clothes — simple, raw, dark, things she could feel like herself in, wearing them even when no one took them seriously, and slowly, what started as a form of self-expression turned into something more, leading to Turn Black’s founding in 2018 after she began to accept herself for who she truly was.
Turn Black
The brand reflects her profound appreciation and practice of slowness and minimalism in life, because for Nutan, black isn’t the absence of color. It’s the presence of clarity, of honesty, of identity, and she wanted to create a space where others who felt the same could find themselves too. Despite what people say, she chose to lean into black, to style it, to live in it, and to help others wear it unapologetically — like armor, because Turn Black is, at its core, about embracing who you are — in every thread, every texture, every shade of shadow.
Working with a single color leads to significantly less wastage, and ever since Turn Black was founded, she has tried her best to utilize waste in many ways: upcycled products, buttons, pockets, and materials made of scraps, with the urge to use waste to its fullest potential never stopping, leading to establishing Turn Black Home as the result of this commitment. Apart from waste reduction, she has been fascinated by handlooms since childhood, touching every fabric she came across and understanding the factors that led to power loom popularizing more than handloom, knowing handloom was the future she envisioned for Turn Black because handloom is more than a ‘trend’ — it’s the hard work of a weaver that you will pass on from one generation to another, apart from empowering them. It’s been the perfect collision for her: Zero-waste and Handloom, and she’s beyond thrilled about it, making fabrics out of waste with the help of their weavers and producing some very interesting natural materials. Turn Black was built with the idea of producing minimal, timeless, and functional products. In 2025, her dedication and vision were recognized when she received the Srijan Shakti Award as Design Entrepreneur of the year.
In this thought provoking conversation as part of DTalks, Nutan talks about her design philosophy and being an entrepreneur.
Q. How would you describe your signature design aesthetic, and how has it evolved while working in India?
Nutan: My design aesthetic is rooted in minimalism, but it’s always been deeply emotional. I’m drawn to clean silhouettes, raw textures, and a muted palette, especially black. To me, black isn’t just a colour, it’s a canvas of emotion.
Working in India has shaped that minimalism in unexpected ways. There’s a certain depth in the everyday here, where simplicity holds so much meaning. Over time, I’ve moved from strict minimalism to something softer. Embracing irregularities, rich textures, and a certain tactile quality that feels honest and handmade. It’s an Indian sensibility, but expressed through a contemporary, global design language.
Jiri Embroidered Chenille Overlay. Courtesy of Turn Black
Q. What influences and inspires your current work? Could you share some movements, designers, or elements of Indian culture that have shaped your practice?
Nutan: I’m constantly inspired by the strength and resilience of India’s craft traditions. The Bauhaus movement shaped the way I think, especially the idea that form should follow function. But it’s India’s indigenous wisdom that truly anchors my work. Techniques like kantha, khadi weaving, and natural dyeing move me not just visually, but at a deeper level. They hold stories, patience, and a way of life. I’ve also been deeply influenced by designers like Issey Miyake and Rei Kawakubo, whose work goes beyond just fashion and speaks of identity, emotion, and resistance.
Image Courtesy: Turn Black
Chenille Full Sleeve Jacket. Courtesy of Turn Black
Q. Could you walk us through your creative process? How do you move from initial concept to final execution?
Nutan: My process usually starts with something I’ve noticed or felt. It could be a small moment, a memory, or a question I keep returning to. I don’t start with a moodboard, but by sketching and experimenting with fabric, trying to understand how an idea might take shape. I work closely with our artisans right from the start. Sampling, testing, and adjusting things as we go. It’s an intuitive and layered process.
Nylah Dress. Courtesy of Turn Black
Q. Your work often involves collaborations with artisans and other creatives. What draws you to these partnerships, and how do these collaborations enrich your design practice?
Nutan: I’ve never viewed design as a solitary process; it’s something that emerges from exchange, attentive listening, and mutual trust. Collaborating with artisans means drawing from a deep well of knowledge that’s been passed down over generations. It’s a way of learning, unlearning, and creating something that feels rooted. These partnerships keep the work real. Whether it’s an embroiderer in Bengal or a ceramicist in Jaipur, every collaboration adds a layer I couldn’t have arrived at on my own.
J’adore dress. Courtesy of Turn Black
Q. Looking back at your portfolio, which project represents a significant turning point in your career, and among your recent works, what project are you most proud of and why?
Nutan: The Perception collection, inspired by Rorschach inkblots, marked a major turning point for us. It introduced a new way to explore themes of perception, identity, and emotion through hand and machine embroidery, techniques we were experimenting with for the first time at Turn Black. Among our recent works, the Onenesscollection holds a special place in my heart. It reflects our core values of connection, stillness, and depth, and it was the first time the entire team felt deeply connected to the emotional essence of a collection.
The biggest challenge has been staying authentic in a market often driven by trends and mass production. Yet, this challenge also presents our greatest opportunity because there is a growing audience in India and abroad that values honesty and depth in design. We have navigated these obstacles by building a strong in-house team, committing to zero waste practices, and focusing on the long-term vision rather than chasing short-term visibility.
Rishkesh Set. Courtesy of Turn Black
Q. How do you approach sustainability and eco-friendly practices in your designs, particularly considering India’s traditional wisdom and contemporary environmental challenges?
Nutan: Sustainability at Turn Black isn’t an afterthought, it’s the foundation. We produce everything in-house, with 20% of our fabrics from our own handlooms, minimize plastic use, and recycle fabric waste. India’s craft legacy teaches us to respect materials, time, and people. Our approach is to combine this traditional wisdom with innovation and a global perspective.
YaadRam Ji and Murari Ji, Weavers. Turn Black Home. Courtesy of Turn Black
Q. What’s your most exciting recent design or art discovery that’s influencing your current thinking?
Nutan: Lately, I’ve been drawn to the Japanese philosophy of wabi sabi, the beauty of imperfection and transience, which resonates deeply with our process-led approach. I’ve also found inspiration in the work of artist Lee Ufan; his use of space, silence, and restraint has had a powerful influence on the way I approach design.
Q. How do you build visibility and reach out to potential clients – what platforms and strategies have worked best for you?
Nutan: Our growth has been mostly organic, rooted in storytelling and word of mouth. Instagram has played a key role in building visibility, especially internationally. Collaborations with photographers, artists, and like-minded platforms have helped us connect with the right audience. We approach direct email marketing thoughtfully, using it as a way to share not just updates, but the values that guide our work.
Q. From your experience, what are the crucial dos and don’ts for young designers trying to establish themselves in India, and what professional forums or communities would you recommend they join?
Nutan: Do stay true to your voice, learn from artisans, understand your customer, and embrace slow growth. Don’t chase trends, compare your path, or undervalue your work. Communities like IndiDesign, Creative Dignity, and global platforms like BOF or Not Just A Label offer great insight and connection, but nothing replaces genuine relationships. Focus on nurturing your network offline.
Q. As you look ahead, what kind of projects or directions would you like to explore?
Nutan: Looking ahead, I would love to transform Turn Black into immersive spaces, physical environments that truly embody our philosophy. Imagine a concept store designed to feel like a meditative experience. I’m also excited to experiment more and dig deeper into home and lifestyle, exploring different mediums while staying true to our unique, grounded, and expressive identity.
Q. For aspiring designers looking to make their mark in India’s design landscape, what wisdom would you share from your journey?
Nutan: At the risk of sounding a bit preachy, here’s what I’ve learned over the years, navigating India’s design world. Stick to your vision, even when it feels easier to follow the crowd. Get hands on with your work and listen more than you speak. Sometimes, less really is more, especially when it’s done with intention. The design space in India is evolving, making more room for voices that are intentional, grounded, and driven by more than just aesthetics.
Contributor
